Yesterday was so hectic and hot and long, that today we
needed a leisurely “sleep-in” morning. We didn’t really get going until long
after 8am, and so our first stop was the café where we had purchased coffee two
days before. It was a lovely little café. Pete had the breakfast sandwiches
(egg, mayo, ham, tomato), Em had the pancakes and Steve and I got traditional
Japanese toast (their bread is so good!), eggs and salad. I find it so
interesting that salad is a breakfast item here.
Once we had our fill, we were on our way
to the first temple: KinKakuji! If Trump
had built a Temple back in the day, it would look like this….completely covered
in gold. Em told us the story of two Shogun: a grandfather and his grandson. The
grandfather wanted to build the most gorgeous temple ever, so he built a temple
covered in gold next to his retirement home. It’s also known as The Gold
Temple. He lived right next door to his temple.
The grounds were lovely to walk
around, but the place was so crowded. It is definitely a top tourist
attraction. The rest of this story is for the end of our day…
After walking around in the heat (thank goodness
for partial cloud cover!), we decided to also tour Ryoanji…the temple where the
first rock garden was created. The grounds were peaceful and gorgeous. We went
into the Temple (shoes off!) and were able to see the very first rock garden
created within the temple grounds, complete with the raked sand around them. It
is said that if you can see all 15 rocks at once, you will achieve
enlightenment. Steve took a panoramic shot. He has achieved enlightenment. :-P
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The entrance to lunch |
After walking around those grounds, including a
beautiful pond, boat house, small tori gate and bridge, we were back on the
road walking towards the bus. IT WAS SO HOT. We made it down the hill to the
bus stop and headed into the heart of Kyoto for Soba. Emily took us to a Soba
restaurant that has been around since the 1400’s! I told Peter that when
Columbus was discovering America, they were already making Soba noodles at this
place.
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Since 1465! |
Emily ordered one of their specialties, which came in a 5 tier set of
bowls, with smaller portions of mushrooms, rice balls, radish, etc. It was
quite the dish. Pete and I had hot soba noodles (yes, on a hot day…but I did
think I was getting cold noodles!) and mine was with Tempura shrimp. Steve had
a cold soba noodle dish. It was very good…and very salty.
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Emily's meal. Wow! |
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Along the Philsopher's Path |
After that, we wandered down the street towards
the busses. We made it onto a bus headed back to our area, but instead of going
to the house, we headed up the hillside towards Ginkakuji! But first, we
stopped for more ice cream. This time Pete got a blue soda one that he
absolutely loved. I went for white peach, and Emily got cookes & cream and
Steve got chocolate/vanilla swirl again (boring!)
Once up the hillside and through the gates, we
found ourselves on the grounds of Ginkakuji. This is the Temple that the
grandson built in response to his grandfather’s lavish Temple. It’s also known
as the Silver Temple even though it has no silver on it. It’s just a lovely
wooden temple on the mountainside, facing up the mountain. The feel was just so
different from the Gold Temple…much more our style…more natural. The mossy green forest floor was beautiful as
were the trees and waterfalls. I would definitely choose this place over the
other one!
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The lush green forest floor |
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Along the path back down |
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The view from the top! |
After we headed back down the mountain, we walked
along the Philosopher’s Path and back towards the apartment. If it had been
less hot, we could have taken the Path further to see yet another temple…there
are many along the path…but we were done.
Back at the apartment, we showered and regrouped
before heading out for dinner. We were tired, and we knew tomorrow would be an
early morning, so we wanted to stay close. I found a pizzeria (yes, pizza)
close. The owner had studied in Naples, Italy and his wood-fired pizza was
delicious…very authentic ITALIAN pizza. We liked it so much, we ate 3! We also stopped by a bakery next door and
grabbed some pastries for tomorrow’s early morning.
Once
back home, Pete REALLY wanted to try the bikes that were available for the
house guests to use. He and I set up the front lights (since by this time it
was pretty dark) and we went on a 3 mile bike ride basically around a huge
block…on the sidewalk (which is how many do it) in the dark! Fortunately we had
the front light to mostly warn people we were coming (and a bell on the
handlebars). We went past Kyoto University and a high school whose marching
band was outside playing. It was still very warm, and I was definitely
sweating, but I’m so glad we did it!
Once
back, we had to organize and prepare to leave tomorrow early. Another travel
day. Oh joy.
I
did take a moment to photograph our awesome Japanese home tonight. The main
kitchen and a bedroom are upstairs, with a loft where Peter slept. Downstairs
was the bathroom, the toilet, the main entry and our bedroom. The toilet has
all the buttons for all the things you can do (bidet anyone?). It was a very
lovely home and we greatly enjoyed our time there.
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The front entrance from the outside |
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The front entrance from the inside. |
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Shoes off. They go here |
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The hall towards our bedroom (bathroom is on the right) |
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Sink and washing machine |
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Shower/Tub/Washing room |
Why yes, I did video the toilet flushing...but it's JAPANESE!!
Upstairs is the rest of the living space:
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The main kitchen/eating area |
Past the kitchen was Emily's bed and the climb to Pete's loft:
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And Peter slept in the loft! |
We even had a deck and a garden!
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Garden off our bedroom looking down from the deck |
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The deck! |
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The garden view from our bedroom |
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